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AutoCocker Tech


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Frequently Asked Questions
AutoCocker FAQ PDF Print E-mail
Written by Administrator   
Wednesday, 12 November 2008 20:01

F.A.Q.

Here's a short page of Frequently Asked Questions concerning the Autococker.

What is an Autococker? - An Autococker is really a Sniper paintball gun from Worr Games Products with a bolt-on pneumatic automatic cocking system. It was made by Bud Orr in the late 80's to early 90's. Due to its popularity, the Autococker is now it's own paintball gun straight from the factory. It is possibly the most highly customizable gun on the planet.

Where can I buy an Autococker? - Head to your local paintball store (not Wal-Mart or Dicks, etc.) and ask to try out an Autococker. They should have one somewhere in stock. If you would rather buy in cyberspace, head to any of the numerous paintball stores, such as Paintballgear.net, Paintball-Online, or Skanline for Autocockers and accessories.

Why should I buy an Autococker over marker x? - What marker you buy should be completely based on your own opinion, feelings about a particular marker, and skill level. If you just heard about paintball and haven't played a game yet, you probably don't want to be buying any marker yet. If you're not technically inclined, you don't take tedious care of your gun, or you're afraid of something that can be tweaked to the extreme, the Autococker may not be for you. If however you feel you can take on a challenge, have a sound knowledge of how paintball markers work, and like to tweak with stuff a lot, then you may find a friend in this gun.

Can you custom build me an Autococker Joe? - I could but I probably won't for a few reasons. 1 - you learn more by doing it yourself. 2 - Custom guns can get quite expensive and personal, and personality is one thing all Autocockers have. If you are very interested in having an Autococker built for you, please e-mail me, and we can probably work something out.

I just bought my 'cocker and want to mess with something. What should I mess with? - Nothing. Learn about your gun first. Learn how it works, why it does what it does, how to time it, etc. Play some games with it and get a feel for the gun. Then decide what you want to do. Also see the next question.

What should I upgrade first? - As I just stated, you should play a few games first. See what you like and don't like, and change those things. Most people, including me, will tell you to buy a good barrel first. I shoot a J&J Ceramic 14 in. barrel, however the Freak system by Smart Parts, J&J 2-piece, Dye Boomstick, and a whole list of others are perfectly fine as well. Ask around your local field, and even ask to borrow some markers to shoot. See what barrels seem to shoot good, and choose based on that. Also be aware that some barrels have different I.D.'s (Inner Diameters). You should get a barrel that has an inner diameter similar to the paint you shoot most. A barrel with a medium bore (or I.D.) should do just fine for the most part. You may also want to do things such as low pressure, trigger jobs, pneumatic upgrades, and bolts. Keep in mind you should always ask around for opinions on parts before you buy.

Should I shoot Co2 or Nitrogen/HPA? - That's also something you need to decide. If you want the most consistency possible out of your marker, and have a lot of extra dough to spend, go ahead and get a HPA (High Pressure Air) system. If you're on a tight budget and don't play often, Co2 with an anti-siphon or remote system is probably better. Go to your local store and ask about getting an anti-siphon system installed for your marker.

What is anti-siphon and is it better than straight Co2? - Anti siphon is a small hose that is installed onto the valve of a Co2 system in which the hose is pointed upward so it only draws air instead of liquid Co2. The advantage to this is more shots per tank (generally), better consistency, and less chance of your marker freezing, especiallly since the Autococker doesn't like liquid Co2. If you decide to use Co2 on your 'cocker, then get an anti-siphon or remote system to prevent freezing of your gun.

How do I (do something) to my Autococker? - Visit the HowTo page to see how to do a bunch of stuff.

I just pulled out my bolt to clean it, lubed it up, put it back in, and now my 'cocker won't fire the ball out of the barrel. What's wrong? - You have most likely put your bolt in upside down. Take the bolt back out and look near the front of the bolt for a hole. This hole should go in the gun face down. That hole is where the air goes from the valve through the bolt to fire the marker. If it's installed the other way, you won't get the airflow and you won't fire.

I hooked up my CO2 tank to my cocker via an expansion chamber, because I don't want to use the regulator. My balls just fall out the end of the barrel when I shoot though. Why? - New autocockers will not operate over a certain pressure (I'd say somewhere above 500 psi but I'm not sure). The valve will actually shut itself if the input pressure is too high. You will need to either use the included regulator or an aftermarket regulator for the 'cocker to function properly. If you will use CO2, I'd recommend the Palmer Stabilizer, probably the best regulator for CO2. However, the stock reg is just fine for most people.

How many shots can I expect out of my air tank? - That all depends on what type of tank you're using. I think rough estimations for a stock 'cocker (not Black Magic or Orracle) are about 1000-1200 shots for a 20 Oz Co2 tank or a 68/4500 nitro.

Why are there two regulators on the Autococker, and what do they do? - The autococker has two regulators. The primary, or inline regulator regulates air going into the gun that is used for firing the paintball. This reg is responsible for taking the output of your tank, beit co2 or hpa, and reducing it to the operating pressure of the gun. The other pneumatics regulator takes the air regulated by the primary reg and drops it further. Generally it regulates down to less than 100 psi and that air is used for controlling the ram. The 3-way switches that lower pressure air between the front and back of the ram, in essence recocking your gun and loading a paintball. You should adjust the inline reg if you are sweetspotting your marker for efficiency (Look here). Adjust the pneumatic reg so that it uses the minimal amount of air to recock the gun, but also to have enough pressure to keep the ram running during high rates of fire.

What is short stroking? - Short stroking is something that you do when shooting your 'cocker. For the Autococker to function properly, you must fully cycle the trigger. Basically, you have to pull the trigger far enough to fire the paintball AND to fully actuate the 3-way, or fully recock the marker. If you don't pull the trigger far enough to fully recock the marker, it is referred to as short stroking. It's definitely not a good thing during intense firefights. On hinge frames it is generally quite hard to do, and with practice on sliding frames you shouldn't have many problems as you will learn to fully cycle the trigger. Just remember these words from Ax255 on the wOrr Games forums: "Every time you short stroke, God kills a kitten. Please, think of the kittens!"

I'm trying to order a bolt, and there are different lengths. Which one is right for me? - In 2000, WGP began to put a shorter back block onto their Autocockers. The previous year's STO Autococker also had what is called a reverse-p block, which is even shorter than the 2000 blocks. These three blocks take three different length bolts. The first, and longest, bolt is the pre-2000 bolt (sometimes you'll find it referred to as a 98 length bolt). If your autococker was made before the 2000 model year, and your back block looks like a wedge, then you need a pre-2000 bolt. If you're autococker was made in the 2000 model year or newer, you take a 2000+ bolt. If you have a reverse-p block, then you take a STO (also called evolution length) bolt.

I've got a problem with my gun, can you fix it? - Maybe. Check out the services page for a description of what I can and can't do.

Last Updated on Tuesday, 02 December 2008 20:06
 


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